Wild garlic and puy lentil burger

This is the most successful veggie burger I’ve made so far, not least because it’s firm enough to stay in one piece throughout cooking. You could probably even stick it on a barbecue without worrying about it breaking up and falling through the slats. The flavour of the wild garlic really comes through as well. I’d happily pay a fiver for one of these at Glastonbury. I’d be lucky to get one of these for a fiver at Glastonbury.
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How to identify wild garlic

It wasn’t until we got sent a small bag of wild garlic in the weekly veggie box that we realised there was loads of it growing under a tree in the garden; an immortal, indestructible weed that burst through the leaf litter in late March, produced sparse white flowers in April and departed to the compost bin shortly after, accompanied by a pungent whiff.

Now that we know what it looks like, we see it (and smell it) all over the place. Given a south-facing slope and a bit of shade, it sprouts in abundance at this time of year. In every woodland I’ve walked in around Bath, there’s at least one area where the ground is carpeted in rich, dark, garlicky green.
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Fish pie

There are countless ways to make fish pie, but a few basic principles apply – you need smoked fish in a sauce that’s thick enough to support the weight of loads of creamy mashed potatoes.

Personally I like cheese on top of the mash, but that might not be to everyone’s taste. I’ve also included smoked oysters, which are delicious but not entirely essential, and peas, which I would never leave out. Other options include spicing the mash with mustard and horseradish, enriching it with an egg yolk (it goes golden when baked) or adding slices of hard-boiled egg to the fish mix. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with this dish.
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