Potted shrimp

Sweet shellfish in spiced butter is a winning combination. This recipe is best with proper Morecambe Bay brown shrimps, which seem to be readily available at all of my local supermarkets even though I live nowhere near Morecambe. Crayfish make an excellent substitute.

Kipper fishcakes

Kippers are greatly underappreciated in cooking. They’re generally served whole, saving the cook the hassle of removing about 50,000 hairlike forked bones. I’d say the effort is worth it, though, because a de-boned kipper is the most intensely flavoured smoked fish for careful use in fish pies, soups or these excellent fishcakes. You need proper […]

Seared scallops with tarragon salsa verde

This is a really luxurious and expensive starter. Since scallops are pretty amazing on their own, they don’t need much doing to them. I serve them with a fresh herb salsa verde, which is the perfect complement to the natural sweetness of the shellfish. And don’t cut the orange ‘coral’ off the scallops before cooking […]

Smoked mackerel and broad bean kedgeree

Shelling broad beans isn’t one of my favourite tasks. Unfortunately this variation on the classic Empire breakfast of curried smoked fish requires that you go a step further and actually remove each individual bean from its outer skin. The skin would give an unwelcome bitter note to the dish, so it mustn’t be left on. […]